10-31-2024

By Tim Briese

Cathedral Wash Trail: 4.3 miles, 300’ elevation gain, 2:30 roundtrip time

Colorado River Trail: 2.7 miles, 100’ elevation gain, 1:40 roundtrip time

I left Page, Arizona early in the morning and drove south on US 89 and then 89A through the scenic desert to Marble Canyon. 

navajo mountain at dawn

the vermillion cliffs towering above marble canyon

Right after crossing the Colorado River I turned right onto a paved spur road toward Lees Ferry and entered the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. I pulled off at a signed trailhead for the Cathedral Wash Trail. This trail follows a rough canyon down to the Colorado River and it was an adventure that had been on my radar for several years.

near the beginning of the hike

The rugged canyon was unlike any other I had hiked before, with rock formations and layers that seemed almost primeval and otherworldly. I suppose this was because these formations are very ancient, unlike the sandstone canyons of Utah.

After hiking a while I reached the crux of the hike, a 30 foot pour-off that could only be circumvented by carefully negotiating a narrow ledge to the right.

at the brink of the big pour-off.  the route goes around on the narrow ledge at the right.

the route follows this ledge at the right

looking back at the pour-off from the ledge

i had to lower myself off this skinny ledge at the left and step onto the pile of rocks to get down

here is another one - i scooted off the ledge and stepped onto the rock pile

The canyon became rougher the further I went, with smaller pour-offs that could be confronted directly or circumvented by careful routefinding on ledges above them.

i slid down this pour-off, but had to find a route on the ledges above to get back up on my return

I could begin to hear the roar of the Colorado River some distance up the canyon from the river.

getting close to the mouth of the canyon

When I reached the river I found it to be an enchanting place.  The flowing life-giving water was a pleasant contrast to the dry and rugged canyon.

After enjoying this magical place for a few minutes I retraced my steps back up the canyon. This is a popular hike, but this morning I saw only one other fellow coming down the canyon on my return.

I drove a few more miles up the road to Lees Ferry, an outpost on the river run by the Park Service where expeditions launch for trips down the Grand Canyon. I began hiking upstream on the Colorado River Trail, pausing to inspect several historical structures in the area.

looking upstream at the colorado river

looking downstream toward lees ferry

on the trail

I was mesmerized by the placid, gently flowing water in the river as I hiked along.

The trail became rougher and more faint the further I went. I sat for a while to absorb the peacefulness of it all before turning around.

On my return to US 89A I stopped to look at the famous Navajo Bridge that spans Marble Canyon 500 feet above the Colorado River. Tourists can walk out on the old bridge, built in 1928, that was the only means of crossing the Colorado River for 600 miles. A newer bridge to handle modern traffic on the highway was completed in 1995.

the newer navajo bridge

I could see rafters down in the river far below.

I also spotted a rare California condor perched on the framing under the bridge. It is one of the rarest birds in North America, an endangered species, and also the largest land bird in North America, with a wingspan of up to nearly ten feet.

After this memorable morning I headed back up the highway and began my return trip to Colorado.