October 18, 2019

By Tim Briese

4.1 miles, 800’, 3:00 roundtrip time

I had long heard about the backcountry hot springs scattered about in Colorado’s mountains and thought it would be interesting to check one out and see what it was all about. The perfect opportunity afforded itself when I was on a trip to the southwest part of the state. The Piedra River Hot Springs are relatively easy to get to compared to some, requiring a short hike from a relatively good road. A rainy day in mid October seemed like a good time to go in order to avoid crowds, too.

From Durango I drove east on US 160 approximately 35 miles and turned left onto First Fork Road, also known as Forest Road 622 or County Road 122, just east of where US 160 crosses the Piedra River. I followed this 2WD dirt road north about six and a half miles and parked at the spacious Sheep Springs Trailhead on the left side of the road. There was only one other vehicle parked there, a small pickup with California license plates. A rain shower was passing through so I put on my rain gear and headed down the trail to the west into the woods with my lab Abby shortly before 8 am. The trail descends about 700 feet in a mile and a half down to the Piedra River. There is a fork in the trail part way down where anglers tend to go to the left but those headed to the hot springs go to the right.

on the trail on the way down to the river

Upon reaching the canyon bottom there is a pleasant flat area along the river graced with scattered big trees. The trail turns to the north and follows the river a half mile north to the springs.

on the trail along the piedra river

When one arrives at the springs there is another broad flat area on a bench above the river with stone fire rings and good camping spots. There was one tent set up here today. I went to the left and looked down at the river some 30 feet below, with small pools of steaming hot water along the rocky bank, created by previous visitors who had dammed up the water with stones. These steaming pools of various size extended about 100 yards along the bank of the river, many just large enough for a person to get into. There was one fellow soaking in the largest and nicest pool at the south end of the string of pools, apparently the owner of the truck up at the trailhead. I greeted him and walked up the shore some distance away, not wanting to disturb him. This place is clothing optional so I was glad there was almost no one else here today, because I don’t know how comfortable I would be around a bunch of naked people. I found a small pool and got partway into it, finding the water to be uncomfortably hot. I realized that it was a fine art building these little pools in order to get just the right mix of hot water out of the ground with the cold river water. These pools are not accessible during high runoff times in the spring.

steam rises from the hot pools along the river.  i got into the one in the foreground as rain splattered down.

I moved to another small pool that was a little more comfortable and soon the other fellow left so I moved over to the pool he had been in. It was the nicest of all, spacious enough for several people, cooler toward the river side, warmer toward the opposite side. Steam drifted up into the air above the cold river from the hot water. The water in the pool was clear but dark algae particles were easily stirred up from the bottom.

this pool in the foreground was the nicest one

After soaking in the delectable warmth for a while I crawled out and donned my pack and headed back up the trail. The sun was starting to break free of the clouds at times now.

looking back down at a half dozen or so hot pools along the river when i left

nice october fall colors along the trail

more colors along the climb back up to the trailhead

Up at the trailhead there were now a couple more vehicles with hikers preparing to go down to the springs. I headed for home, content that I could now scratch this experience off my bucket list.

a view of the piedra river on the drive back down the road