November 1, 2022

By Tim Briese

4.5 miles, 1700’ elevation gain, 3:55 roundtrip time

I drove from Page, AZ to Lees Ferry first thing in the morning. This interesting and scenic place on the bank of the Colorado River is where rafts launch for trips through the Grand Canyon and also the endpoint for backpackers who hike 38 miles through the famous Paria Canyon. It is one of the few places for many miles where the mighty river is not encased by towering sandstone walls. I parked in the spacious parking area next to the boat launch and started hiking upstream along the River Trail. The Spencer Trail, built as a mule route for hauling mining supplies over a hundred years ago, vigorously climbs 1600 feet up to the top of the cliffs in less than two miles, with amazing views. I scanned the cliffs above for a probable route of the trail but saw nothing that looked even remotely doable.

view from the parking area. the spencer trail climbs to the top of those cliffs

on the river trail

After a little under half a mile I reached a signed junction and turned left onto the Spencer Trail. It immediately began climbing in earnest to the heights above.

view of the colorado river near the start of the spencer trail

looking back at lees ferry

on an early part of the trail

The rocky trail was in decent shape except up higher where a bit of minor scrambling was needed in a couple of spots. The views were outstanding and got better the higher I climbed.

There was some exposure that was a bit unnerving and I wouldn’t recommend the trail for small children. One needed to pay attention because an errant step could have spelled disaster in many places.

Part way up I was passed by a young fellow and his dog and later by a fellow from Italy. I took my time, enjoying the amazing views and taking photos. Occasionally a motorboat went up the river far below.

the slopes above

one of the rougher spots on the route

some colorful lichen

getting higher

approaching the top

After an hour and forty-five minutes I reached the top and was treated to outstanding views, including a view of Page and Navajo Mountain on the other side to the northeast.

view from the top

the colorado river canyon to the northeast, with page beyond and navajo mountain on the horizon

I walked down to another overlook on the other side and looked down at a bend in the Colorado River upstream from Lees Ferry.

After visiting with the Italian for a while and taking more photos I headed back down the trail. It took me an hour and fifteen minutes to descend. After I returned to my truck I drove a short distance to the Paria Beach area to enjoy lunch beside the impressive Colorado River.

the colorado river

Then it was time to load up and start heading back home to Colorado.